Thursday, February 28, 2013

Falling in love...

View of Xela from Mt. Baul

Although we didn’t have the smoothest of beginnings to Part Two of our adventure, neither Alex nor myself can deny the love we’re beginning to feel for Guatemala. With each passing day, we discover more and more perks to living in Xela. For example, we recently joined a decent gym with a monthly membership fee of 100 Quetzales, which equates to roughly $12.50 per month or $1.04 per visit. There are cheap, delicious coffees and chocolates available on every street corner and the hot, fresh tortillas are to die for. The indigenous people are incredibly pleasant and consistently offer warm smiles and welcoming greetings. Best of all, is the fact that we are snuggled deep in the heart of volcano country, meaning hiking trails are ubiquitous.
The town of Zunil 
By our second weekend here, we were both itching to leave the city in search for one of many hot springs hidden in surrounding villages. After climbing aboard a local, tricked-out old school bus we found ourselves speeding rapidly towards the outskirts of town and down a lush canyon surrounded by hundreds of acres of hillside farming land. Truckloads full of vibrantly colored vegetables blurred past my window as I soaked in sights of the Guatemalan countryside. Every five minutes or so the bus would stop, allowing swarms of elaborately dressed local woman to climb aboard.  Alex and I couldn’t get over our amazement at the women’s ability to balance objects on their heads – literally, they can balance anything from a folded up table-cloth, to a massive bag of produce to a brimming bucket of juice (and not spill a drop!) I want to get ESPN down here to broadcast competitions on who can carry the most weight or the trickiest object.  While I sit here and describe to you my amazement and try to portray the correct portrait of these women, I should also mention that I think it’s a pretty clever means of transporting objects. Think about all the times you spilled your coffee or dropped your bag when trying to open a door. Or when you had to take two loads of groceries from your car because you’re arms were full; the women here don’t have these issues!
Alex in the back of the the truck up to
 the springs - Zunil in the background
Soaking in the big, HOT pool
Fuentes Georginas
Anyways, after about an hour or so of riding the tricked-out school bus, we hopped off on the side of the road to a little town called Zunil. From here we talked to the owner of a Pick-Up truck who, for a “Gringo Price”, agreed to take us the half-an-hour ride up to the hot springs. Once again, Alex and I found our selves bumping along through lush, vegetable-rich terrain. Eventually the truck came to a halt at what some people reasonably argue are the most beautiful hot springs in all of Guatemala: Fuentes Georginas. As we wandered down the small path toward the hot springs, I found myself becoming more and more excited about our discovery. On one side of the path was a steep, fern laden mountainside and on the other were a handful of small, rustic cabins overlooking a forest-covered valley.  The trail ended at the lip of three beautiful, steaming pools nestled snugly amidst a dense, tropical landscape. Alex and I reserved one of the cabins and wasted no time settling in and unwinding in the heavenly hot water. We spent Saturday afternoon lounging in the pools talking to seasoned hot-springers, local Quetzaltecos and various world travelers and also mustered the energy to summit one of the nearby ridges.  The springs close to the public at seven o’clock at night, but cabin renters are free to use the pools around-the-clock. So, after a delicious steak dinner Alex and I, along with a large North Korean family, indulged in a moonlight soaking session.  Before long the heat of the water got the best of us, so we built a small fire our room’s chiminea and were quickly lulled to sleep by the hushed quietness of the mountains.
The restaurant at Fuentes Georginas
View from our cabin
As you may know, Sundays in Latin America are big “family–time” days.  Large groups of relatives join together, producing delicious barbeques, competitive games of soccer, elaborate picnics… you get the picture. So you can imagine what we woke up to on Sunday. We went to sleep on Saturday night in the serenity of the quite mountains and woke up on Sunday morning to masses of loud, excited Guatemalan families desperately rushing to being their day of rest and relaxation. Nonetheless, spending Sunday basking in the hot mountain sun, soaking our bones in steaming spring water and being entertained by pure Guatemalan culture was not a bad way to end the weekend.

Enjoying a spring-side dinner
My volunteer experience has changed immensely since the last time I wrote. While I enjoyed working at Proyecto Profamilia, I realized I wanted to have more of a hands-on volunteer job were I was thoroughly engrossed in the community and culture. So I took the leap and agreed to ten weeks of teaching English at a rural school on the outskirts of the city. Last Monday I introduced myself to seventy-two Guatemalan children as their new English teacher. School hours run from eight o'clock in the morning to a little after one o'clock in the afternoon and during that time I travel between the five different grade levels teaching Basic English.
Our family's dog - Mikey 
A few years ago, the community repeatedly asked the government for funding in order to build the school. After consistent refusals the community came together and raised enough money to build the school themselves. With this said, the “school” structure is as basic as it gets. The concrete building has five separate rooms but there are no closable doors and only open windowpanes, which makes for a terrible learning environment. Each grade holds fifteen to twenty six students ranging anywhere from ten-years-old to twenty-years-old and, considering that schooling in Guatemala is not mandatory, attendance (and paying attention) is optional. Again, this makes for a terrible learning environment; there are children who desperately want to learn, children who attend simply for something to fulfill their days and children who are there because their parents insist.
I will say, simply, that I absolutely love teaching these kids; the ability to gift someone with knowledge is beyond rewarding. On the other hand, now that I've finished my second week of volunteering, I can say that few things in my life have challenged me in the way that teaching English has. Not only am I required to speak in Spanish a majority of the time in order for students to understand English, but also the patience required is unimaginable. 
Alex with Volcán Santa Maria in the
background - the plume of smoke is
coming from an eruption from
 Vocán Santiaguito. 
I can’t wait to see how I'm changed by this volunteer experience and, most of all, I can’t wait to share with you the stories of my teaching adventures – there are sure to be some good ones.
Alex is continuing his volunteer work at the hospital and is having a great experience in third-world medicine. Every Tuesday is “Endoscopy Day” and Alex, after observing and discussing possible diagnoses with the doctor, has obtained the task of carrying patients in “twilight” to their wheel chairs. Considering the fact that he is nearly twice the size of the patients, this job is not only easy for him but is comical to the surgical staff – in particular the anesthesiologist, who jokes that Alex can pick up the patients with his pinky. 
Our Valentine's Day dinner
There are two major problems in the medical world in Guatemala. First, medicines are hard to come by here – not only are they expensive, but many capable and willing doctors lack the supplies needed to treat complications. The second problem deals with presence of extreme poverty. A majority of the population are agriculturalists that have a very low monthly income. If someone needs heart surgery, for example, and can’t afford it, some doctors require forms of payment like the deed to the patient’s house until they can pay off the surgery. If the payment isn’t made in two years or so, the house becomes property of the doctor. Fortunately, the gastroenterologist whom Alex is shadowing isn’t one of these types of doctors and has made quite the impression on Alex.  The doctor hardly makes any money working at Hospital Rodolfo Robles, but arrives day after day simply because he loves helping people. He’s truly concerned about the wellbeing of his patients and while he could be spending his time at a clinic with a low patient population and a higher income, he chooses to work where his skills are most needed – regardless if he only makes enough to fill his car’s gas tank. This volunteer experience has helped both Alex and I feel like we are putting forth our best humanitarian efforts and people like this gastroenterologist only add encouragement.
With one month of living in Guatemala behind us, Alex and I are just beginning to realize the possibilities of adventure this country has to offer. We’ve got volcanoes to climb, crater lakes to swim in, Pacific coast beaches on which to lounge and Mayan ruins to explore…. And that’s only the beginning.
Thanks for reading and stay tuned for tales to come!

Wednesday, February 20, 2013

Scrubbin' into South America


           I have been asked by some of our readers, why I haven’t blogged about my medical volunteer yet.  The reason being that, honestly, there was not much to talk about in the beginning of this trip.  But I finally feel like I have had enough of a worthwhile experience to share.  We’ve also had a lot to write about with weekend adventures that had time-consuming blog posts. Here is my opportunity to finally let you guys know what I have been up to in the clinics and hospitals around Cusco and my new volunteer project in Guatemala.  I am going organize this blog by first explaining to you the process of my volunteering from when I first got to Cusco to what I am doing now.  Then I want to give you case-by-case patient observations and interactions.
           
            First of all, I want explain the things I wanted to get out of my traveling/volunteering experience. I want to improve my Spanish and my ability to communicate with a Spanish-speaking patient.  Second, I want to get some hands on experience and help the less fortunate with health care.  The success of these goals, like any healthcare student, would revolve around my Spanish and also my ability to build rapport with the doctors.  

Clinica San Juan
de Dios
When I first got to Cusco I was told that the clinic I was supposed to be working in had some issues filing the paperwork that cleared me to work in the clinic.  This clinic, Centro De Salud de Ttio, was right around the corner from our home and had a high patient load and cheap cost.  Perfect! I thought. But I was told by our coordinator to be patient because, in Peru, things do not happen overnight.  So in the meanwhile I spent my first week working at another clinic; San Juan de Dios.  This private clinic was a bus ride away and it had a second floor dedicated to paraplegic and mentally disabled children.   Upon arrival of my first day and orientation it was a way nicer clinic than I had imagined but I was promised that there was enough of a patient load that doctors would need help.  I spent this first day following a doctor but she was not very happy about it.  The rest of the days that week I spent doing paperwork with no patients walking in the clinic.  I came to the understanding that the volunteering they were in need of was spending time with the disabled children upstairs.  While this is a great way to volunteer, it was not what I had set out to accomplish on this trip.  I finished up that week and set sights on other opportunities for the next week.  After talking to my volunteer coordinator she was scrambled to find somewhere in the city for me to go.  I knew from talking to other medical volunteers that there were plenty of opportunities in the city.  It was obvious that the IFRE Peru medical volunteer program still had a lot to be desired in its growth.  I was slightly disheartened from the false promises I received before coming to Peru, but I was and still am, determined to enjoy and make this experience everything it can be. 

The next week I was set up to go to an orphanage for mentally disabled children called Casa de las Estrellas.  The orphanage had funding from a company in Spain but lost it two years ago when their economy began to crash.  These kids have since then been without basic check ups for two years and were glad to accept me into the house.  My job was to give all the kids a check up and physical examination as a prescreening to see if any of them needed to go to the hospital for further medical attention.  There were about forty kids in the orphanage so this was an all week project.  I had to take two busses to get to the far end of Cusco to find the orphanage.  Everyday I was happily and overwhelmingly greeted with cold, slobbery hands and hugs from numerous children.  The excitement and love was so overwhelming that I didn’t mind all the germs I was inevitably receiving. There were four house-moms that showed up to care for the children everyday and a small Peruvian cook.  The sight of a bigger man such as myself was a rarity for them and in turn excited them.  One by one with the help of a house mom I checked the children out.  Pathologies included what you would expect from an orphanage - dermatitis and lots of it.  Although dermatitis is self-limiting, I had some creams to distribute anyway.  Other than warts, scratches, and irritated noses from constant nose picking, these kids were very well cared for.  
           
The next week was pretty low key for us with Thanksgiving; I spent the week waiting to hear back from our coordinator for other opportunities and going to the orphanage, Casa Hogar, with Sarah.  The kids there are not as well cared for so I spent that week, with the help of Sarah, cleaning faces, ears, and skin infections.  One day one of the girls fell over the couch and cut her forehead open and proceeded to bleed everywhere.  That was a moment of excitement until we cleaned her up and stopped her bleeding only to find a tiny, shallow cut. It was a bit of a relief because she cried and bled as if she punctured her skull. 

It wasn’t until after Thanksgiving that our coordinator asked a friend of hers who happened to be the CEO of a private hospital, Clinica Paredes, for a personal favor in having me intern in his hospital.  I met with him the next day where he asked me what my goals where.  He then granted me access to follow him and any doctor with their patients and even to observe in the operating room.  This was better than any opportunity that I had come across yet.  I was introduced to the operating room manager, Lilly, and we exchanged phone numbers so that I could contact her about the surgery schedule.  I followed the doctor with a couple patients but most of my time was spent in the operating room observing and even assisting in surgeries.  I meet other doctors in the area, two of which where bosses of the biggest hospital in Cusco called Seguro Hospital.  These doctors took a liking to me an invited me to come and shadow surgeries in their hospital.  They gave me their cell phone numbers and told me to call anytime I was in the hospital.

Clinica Paredes is a small hospital with two operating rooms.  Seguro Hospital is a modern three-story multi-winged hospital similar to the ones you find in the States.   Everything in Seguro was decorated in dark tile and not the typical all-white you see in the hospital settings back home.  My first experience there involved me walking around until I found the doctor I was phoning.  I finally found him with his head poked out of a restricted operating room entrance ushering me in a tossing me scrubs.  Within thirty minutes of my first day there I was scrubbed into a surgery, (But more on that later).  For majority of the weeks in Cusco I spent my time at Clinica Paredes and only spent a handful of times at Seguro. 
The only picture I have of Seguro Hospital.  Peak through the fence.
Clinica Salud de Ttio
It was January by the time I got the call from my coordinator saying that the papers had finally gone through and that I was clear to go to Centro De Salud de Ttio, the clinic I was supposed to be volunteering at the whole time.   I worked there in the topico or emergency department.  People come in for triage and then are directed towards the separate departments as needed.  There are also patients that come in for wound care, injections, sutures, nail removals, suture removals, ect. This is where topico came in.  I was immediately used in helping treat the patients that came through the door.   I went to the topico clinic for my last three weeks in Cusco.   My experiences in these clinics and hospitals have ranged from observing patient interactions, seeing patients on my own, performing small clinical procedures, observing surgeries, and scrubbing into and assisting in surgeries.   Of all these experiences there are a few that I would like to share.  Here are my patient interactions in a case-by-case presentation as I remember them:

Scrub station in Paredes
(Picture of Jesus
guiding surgeon above) 
Ayahuasca:  The first patient I followed at Clinica Paredes was the typical backpacker living in a hostel.  He was there with is brother complaining of continuous vomiting with blood and stomach pain which are both typical symptoms that most people have after consuming Ayahuasca.  Its believed to be part of the cleansing process.  I watched an endoscope go into his esophagus and stomach looking for longitudinal tears that would produce the blood in his vomit.  It turned out that he had tears at his gastroesophageal junction, which is called Mallory Weiss syndrome. 

Clavicle Fracture:  The very first surgery I observed in Clinica Paredes was a clavicle fracture due to a car accident.  The first thing I noticed about Peruvian surgeries is that if the procedure is done under general anesthesia there is no local anesthesia administered before the surgery.  This makes for a very painful post-op.  The small Peruvian trauma surgeon did the best he could to distract the displaced collarbone and realign it into anatomical position. After forty minutes of struggling, he set the bone as best as he could and screwed a plate across the fracture line.  It was better than nothing, as the doctor said. 
Paredes Operating
Room

Humerus Fracture:  Trauma surgeries are the most interesting surgeries to me.  One day a trauma surgeon bumped his case up because he needed to fix this lady’s humerus.  It had taken her over a week to get to Cusco after a car wreck that occurred in a village near the jungle.  Her body had begun to heal itself by the time of the surgery.  There was formation of new bone beginning to grow and soft tissues had been swollen and contracted around the fracture.  These factors made the surgery a bit difficult in trying to realign the bone into anatomical position.  The doctor had to re-break the humerus and try to re align it, battling soft tissue contractions. To make the operation even more difficult the only surgical plates they had were huge.  The doctor screwed a plate over the fracture line and into the bone to hold it in place and checked the movement.   Elevation and flexion at the shoulder joint were limited but the bone was in better alignment.  The thing I had to take away from this operation is that she was better off after the surgery than before – regardless of the resources that could have been available for a better outcome. 

OBGYN surgeries:  I had the opportunity to observe a couple types of OBGYN surgeries.  I wanted to be exposed to all different kinds of medicine and surgeries so, when the opportunity arose, I felt as if I was obligated to observe.  I first saw a caesarian section.  The mildly entangled umbilical cord and enlarged placenta had complicated the pregnancy and the doctors decided the baby had to come out.  I had never seen such urgency, force, and precision by two old ladies in my life.  They got that baby out of there in less than fifteen minutes.  Then the doctors showed the father the umbilical cord and placenta to reinforce their diagnosis and need to perform the caesarian section.  I got to see another C-section the next week as well but the procedure was calmer with the same successful outcome.  The second type of surgery I observed was a vaginal reconstruction.  With hemostats coming out of there in every direction, cuts and sutures being placed deep and superficial, I don’t know why anyone would undergo that procedure and that’s all I have to say about that.  The last type of OBGYN procedure I observed was an ovarian cyst removal and hysterectomy.  This was a very interesting procedure to be able to see the female reproductive organs exposed.   I also got to see what a cystic ovary looked like when the doctor removed it from the patient.

 Fracture Friday: This was the end of my second week at Clinica Paredes and I had met a lot of the regular doctors and nurses in the hospital by that point.  This particular Friday morning we had a surgery scheduled for a fractured wrist (distal radius).   The only problem was that the patient was late for the surgery. The trauma surgeon and I were talking while we were waiting.  He wanted to practice his English with me and I my Spanish with him as we exchanged our medical backgrounds and difference in North American and South American medical education.  The patient finally showed up and it was then that the OR manager, Lilly, told me that I would be scrubbing in on the surgery to help the doctor with his case.  Typically, the doctors show up with an assistant to scrub in and help but I realized he did not have anyone else with him and he requested for my help.  It felt good to scrub into a case again, except in a different country and in a different language.   My orthopedic rotation at Temple left me confident to help this doctor with his wrist surgery.  There were times during the surgery when I didn’t fully understand what he would say to me but I would assisted with whatever I thought would help him visualize and reset the bone.   A mild communication barrier was not enough for the doctor and I to successfully reset and screw in a plate to hold the patients radius in place.  I assisted mostly by holding the bone and plate in place while the doctor drilled and screwed.  We switched roles when it came time to close up the wrist, he handed me the suture and asked me if I had done this before.  I confidently said yes and accepted the chance to show my skills.  With a beautifully closed up wrist and my first scrubbed in case abroad finished, my day could have been complete right then. 

            The second surgery of the day was equally as interesting.  A young girl was in a car wreck a few days earlier and suffered a fractured jaw.  The fracture line was a vertical break just to the right of her chin.  The doctor I just finished the radial fracture with talked to the doctor about to perform the surgery and he also decided that he would use me to scrub in and assist in his surgery.   We had a quick conversation about who I was during the prep of the surgery and then we were in action.  The doctor made his incision inside the lower lip along the jaw line and exposed the fracture right away.  He wrapped a wire around the teeth across the fracture line and twisted the wire creating tension and closing the fracture together.  He then screwed a plate into the jawbone across the fracture line holding it in place.  He left the wire wrapped around the teeth and then looked to me to close the incision.  Again, I confidently accepted the suture remembering that suturing any part of the body is the same concept.   Even thought I have never put sutures in a mouth before, or a wrist, until that day.  I sutured up the incision in the girls mouth and my Friday was a complete success.  I had scrubbed into, assisted, and closed two very interesting cases. 

Total Hip Replacement:  Due to my month long orthopedics rotation at Temple University Hospital this surgery was no stranger to me.  In fact my first hip surgery I ever scrubbed into during that month was a four-hour surgery disarticulating the hip joint of a two hundred and forty pound ex boxer.  The experience I had in Cusco only involved me observing.  The procedure was the same but the way they went about it was completely different.  For example, in the States we used “space suits” which is essentially an all-sterile hood that has a clear plastic window and a fan inside to keep you from overheating.  This is used for increased protection since the surgery involves a lot of hammering and joint manipulation where there can be blood, tissue, and fluid splatter.  In Cusco they had the surgical cap and mask with no eye protection unless the doctor wore glasses.  In fact blood did get splattered on a couple of the doctors faces even though they turned away every time someone was doing the manipulations or hammering.  Another big difference that I observed was that the prosthesis representative for the surgery did a lot of the actual surgical placement of the new hip.  This is different in the States because the representative does not assist in the surgery and just tells the doctor the sizes of the different prosthesis and answers any questions during the process.   Despite the differences the patient had the same outcome of a newly replaced hip. 


Plastics:  My first day at the biggest hospital in Cusco, Seguro, was hectic and great at the same time.  I called the anesthesiologist who worked at the hospital and he tried to explain to me where to meet him.  It is hard enough to follow a doctor talking in person but on the phone it was near impossible to understand what he was saying plus he abruptly hung up the phone when he was done talking - which was understandable since he was in surgery but not necessary since anesthesiologists just kind of hang out during the procedure.  Anyway, I wandered around the hospital until I finally got some help and saw Dr. Tapia hanging out of a restricted entry door and waved me over.  I was then thrown some scrubs and rushed back into the main outpatient surgery floor.  I walked in on the end of what looked like a nose job being finished up but I wasn’t sure exactly what was done.  I talked to the doctors for a bit and it was established that I was to scrub into and help the doctor on the next surgery.  Which was in fact a rhinoplasty or nose job.  I got the opportunity to assist in two rhinoplasty’s that day.   Peru does their elective surgeries under local anesthesia, NOT general anesthesia, which means the patient is awake and conscious.  I assisted in placing the cartilage while the doctor sutured it in place and I also hammered as the doctor held the osteotome to remove bone and cartilage from the bridge of the patients nose.  The experience was very educational: I now fully understand the rhinoplasty procedure and I again don’t know why anyone in his or her right mind would undergo such a surgery.  Either way I left with a new life experience and was very happy about it.
            I also observed a breast augmentation and a liposuction surgery at the private hospital Parades.  I’ll spare the details and just say these were also procedures that left me with a new understanding for the human desire for a “perfect body”.   Again, I do not understand why anyone would want to undergo such a procedure. 

(1) Expose Tendon
Podiatry:  I was excited to finally observe a Podiatric case.  I asked the doctor if I could assist, considering it is my specialty in the United States, but he had an assistant that worked with him full time so it wasn’t necessary for me to be scrubbed into the surgery.  Either way I was happy to see what the doctor was going to do.  To spare a long and lengthy worded explanation of the surgery so I will just say that he transferred a tendon in the foot from one location to another to assist in lifting the foot since the original muscle responsible for that action was not functioning.  The surgery was necessary for a normal walking pattern.   This is a very interesting surgery and I was excited to witness how the doctors in Peru do it differently.
(2) Split Tendon
(3) Transfer Tendon
(4) Closed up 
(5) Post Op Cast
Abdominal Surgery:  I observed two different abdominal surgeries, which were firsts for me. It was interesting to see what that part of the body looked like outside of my anatomy cadaver lab.  The first surgery I saw was an open gall bladder removal due to cholelithiasis or gallstones.  It was crazy to see gallstones that were a little bit smaller than golf ball sized come out of a human body.  The second type of surgery was an open gastrointestinal surgery due to scar tissue constriction along the intestinal tract from a previous appendix infection and surgical removal.  I saw the entire small intestines removed from the abdomen and inspected foot-by-foot.  The doctor carefully cut away any scar tissue causing constrictions to the bowel, which was a tedious process.  There was a section of the bowel that was too scared and constricted to salvage and was removed.  The two ends of the bowel were reattached and the surgery was complete.  After my orthopedic rotations I knew the skeleton of the body was resilient but after watching the intestines being manipulated as they were during this surgery I feel like I walked away with a new understanding of the resiliency of the human body in general. 

Topico:  As I explained earlier, there were mainly basic procedures performed in topico.  There were two patients I helped whose stories I would like to share.  The first patient I would like to share was a young female who came to the clinic with a scarf pressed to her head.  After quick questioning the nurse was obviously upset that she had not come in earlier.  She explained that she was at a discoteca the previous night and someone had smashed a large bottle on top of her head.  We examined her to find a deep laceration (probably to the bone) that was about five centimeters in length.  I got to do the whole procedure of injecting anesthesia, cleaning out the wound, and throwing the sutures to close up her head.  That was the first time I had closed up a head wound like that and I was happy with the result and confident in the uneventful healing of her wound. 

            The second patient was a middle-aged man who came to the clinic with his hand wrapped.  He explained that he cut his hand in a machine doing construction work.  He unwrapped his right hand to expose two deep cuts to the ring and pinky finger.  The cuts were on the backside of the fingers at the last joint crease and were deep to the bone.  He had cut the extensor tendon of both fingers and was not able to extend them.  The nurse and I explained to him that he would need further surgery to repair the tendons in both his fingers.  He did not have a lot of money and was at the clinic now because he wouldn’t be able to afford a surgery at the hospital in the first place.   He understood his risk and told us he would go back to get his fingers fixed if he had the money in the future, but he wanted us to fix him for now.  Again, I had the whole procedure to myself and took great care in administering anesthesia, and thoroughly cleaning the open wounds.  Only the remaining joint capsule and soft tissues on the palm side of his hand were keeping his fingers attached.   I took the time to carefully sew his fingers back together and wrap him up to be sent on his way.  As I put his fingers back together I notice other scars on both his hands and knew that this wasn’t his first time in a doctor’s office getting his hands fixed.  Hopefully he is taking better care of his hands now.

Endoscopy
Finally I want to tell you what I am doing now that I have arrived at my volunteer program in Guatemala.  The program here is less interactive because there are three medical schools here and a lot of the clinics are not open to have foreign volunteers because they already have enough medical students around in the first place.  That being said, I am shadowing a gastroenterologist at the local public hospital, Hospital National Dr. Rodolfo Robles.  My responsibilities are strictly observing the doctor/patient interactions.  Every Tuesday the doctor performs endoscopies and I observe five to seven procedures.  The doctor speaks English and is very open to teach.  He has had me give a couple presentations on different diseases so far.  I do not know what my future volunteer will be like for the remainder of the time here, but I am learning what I can and trying to make the best of the situation at hand.  I know I will most likely not have the same hands-on experience I had in Peru but medicine is an ever-growing and educational field and I will learn and soak up as much as I can in the time I have here in Xela, Guatemala.                              

Patients line up every morning
Anesthesiologist carries his medications
in the same tackle box that I have at the lake.

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Peru - Costa Rica - Guatemala


Chiriuchu 
Our last week in Cusco 

Our last week in Cusco was inevitably eventful, as we tried to make the most of our remaining time in the place we called home for ten weeks. We played laughter-filled games of Pictionary with our host family, visited our favorite coffee shop, juice stand, breakfast nook, pizza restaurant and, against better judgment, I tried cuy (guinea pig) at a weekend festival. Technically the plate in which I sampled is called “chiriuchu” or “cold plate” in Quechua and it should be noted that this is not the recommended, nor the traditional manner in which to first try cuy. The platter consisted of cold chicken, a variety of cold, sausage-like meats, a portion of fried cuy, seaweed, squeaky cheese, fish eggs, and hot red pepper. Alex, who had full intention of sharing the plate with me, took one small nibble and immediately threw down his napkin, refusing to take part in the sampling.
However, with the urge to “live in the moment” and not miss out on anything, I evaluated and tested a bit of everything on the plate.
It took about forty-five minutes for the food poisoning to kick-in.
I spent the rest of what I’d hoped to be a glorious last weekend praising the Porcelain God and praying for something to make it stop. I was incredibly ill but more than anything I was upset at myself for making such a foolish decision. But, as all bad things do, the sickness passed and I was determined to make my last week with the girls the best week yet. 
Some of the girls with their Barbies
Julieta's collage 
We spent our afternoons crafting like we’d never crafted before - making a variety of beautiful Barbie clothes, colorful magazine collages, and sincere birthday cards for my mom. On my last day we had a fiesta. I brought in bags of chips, boxes of cookies, and bottles of soda and after feasting on the snacks, we had a dance party where each girl showed off their best groove. I was able to get my hands on a bunch of leftover balloons from New Year’s and we played the game where two groups race to pop all of their balloons by having each member run up and sit on the balloon until it explodes. It was absolutely hilarious. The best part of my day, however, and arguably the best part of my time in Cusco, was when we went outside and I made cups-full of fake snow. My mom sent me two tubes of “Just-add-water Snow Powder” and it was actually really neat – a little powder, a little water and voilà! We had snow! Though the girls knew what snow was, none of them had ever played with it before and the joy those little white, fake snowflakes brought to their faces was priceless. They wasted no time making the most of the snow and, within seconds, did what any kid does with snow – started a snow fight.
The snow was a hit
The greatest group of girls in Peru 
After all the balloons were popped, after the snow was thrown, and after the chip bags were emptied I did what I’d been dreading for weeks and I said my goodbyes. I’m naturally horrible at goodbyes – they make me feel like I’m getting beat with pillowcases full of soap and I almost always cry (ask my mom – it literally took me over an hour to say goodbye to my college roommates). But no amount of preparation or strength could have blunted the pain of saying goodbye to the thirteen girls who magically changed my life over a short ten weeks. After multiple rounds of hugs I tried to walk out the door, but it’s quite hard to do when you have thirteen little pairs of arms wrapped around your waist. Through the tears, I promised them I’d be back and I told them I loved them and, after they let go, I left.
I can say with 100% certainty that I will never forget those precious faces, high pitched giggles or the incredible way they so easily opened their hearts and lives to me.
(To check out a video of my last day - click here
I returned home to an incredibly sick Alex, who, as our bad luck would have it, was wilting away in bed with a very mysterious, very intense bought of stomach infection.  Considering we had a full day of travel ahead of us (as well as a week full of beach-sitting in Costa Rica) we decided it was in both of our best interests if he went to the clinic he so fortunately volunteered with to get an IV and a little medical attention. The nurses were bummed to see him so sick, but all three of them did their best to insure he received superlative care. One bag of saline, three doses of medicine and one hour later Alex was on his way to revival and we headed home for a little more quality time with our host family.
Our five AM wake-up call came entirely too early. I thought it was hard saying goodbye to the girls at the orphanage, but that hardly compared to heartache filled goodbye we had with Jully and Percy. 
I want to take a second to impress on how amazing our Cusco family was. I figured, when I signed up to volunteer and live with a host family, that Alex and I were going to be put up with a family who is happy to have visitors, but who could truly care less about who we actually were or what we did. Jully and Percy, Fernando and Mauricio were the exact opposite. Never in my life did I imagine we would become part of a family so loving and so willing to not only accept us into their home and life, but to go out of their way to make us feel at home and welcome us into their hearts. They truly are an incredible, rare family and without them, our time in Cusco wouldn’t have been half as wonderful as it was.
View of the Andes 
With that said, you can imagine how hard it was to leave them. The second Jully hugged Alex she burst into tears, which, of course, broke the weak dam of tears I’d been building ever since leaving the orphanage. After exchanging multiple rounds of hugs, assuring a return and promising to stay in touch, Percy hailed us a cab and, just like that, we were off to the airport with the first chapter of our trip rapidly coming to a close.
We flew from Cusco to Lima over the majestic Andes Mountains and, with Peru’s stamp fresh in the “Departures” section of our passports, boarded the plane to San Jose, Costa Rica.
A three-hour plane ride and five-hour bus ride later, we arrived in the quaint town of Puerto Viejo.
The beautiful beach 
Our little cottage 
A SMALL section of the ants... 
I’d found a great deal on a small, perfect little house off VRBO and after tracking down the owner, we settled into our humble abode and were quickly lulled to sleep by the croaks of tree frogs and bellows of howler monkeys. Except for one incident, our trip was incredible uneventful. We returned home on the first day to find thousands of ants trailing from the front to the back door. Naturally I panicked and grabbed the broom, bringing destruction to their clan until I accepted defeat and ran next door to the owner. She comforted us by calmly explaining that they are Cleaner Ants, also known as Army Ants, who go from house to house scouring the floorboards for dead moths and other deceased insects and carry them away. After about twenty minutes they make their way to another house, leaving the floors spotless.  They are generally welcomed and people just leave or put their feet up for half-an-hour and let the ants do their work. So that’s exactly what we did. We went out to dinner and listened to a live band and about two hours later returned home… to a house full of even more ants. Luckily they were strictly staying on the floor, so we apologized for destroying their process and went to bed, hoping to wake up to a clean house. Well, it didn’t happen. The ants were still there when we woke up, were still there when we returned home in the evening after the beach, were still there the next morning when we woke up and again when we returned from the beach. After spending about an hour closely observing them, and watching them temporarily paralyze one another with bites (and their bites HURT) I realized that we should immediately get National Geographic on the phone because the Army Ants were waging war in our kitchen. Since the ants clearly couldn’t come to a truce, Alex and I decided to make a truce for them. We armed ourselves with brooms and ant-poison and went to town viciously sweeping, destroying and annihilating any and all ants we came across. Thankfully our tactic worked and we remained ant-free for the remainder of our vacation.
Homemade quesadillas on
the back patio
Alex playing in the waves
Now, I wish I could tell you the rest of our week was packed full of interesting, adrenaline pumping activities, but we honestly had the most laid-back week possible. We made our own meals for the first time in about eleven weeks, spent our days lounging and reading on the beautiful beaches, playing in the aqua blue waves of the Caribbean and biking along the jungle roads and at night we’d play pool and listen to live music at various cabana restaurants. As with all vacations, the end came entirely too fast and before we knew it we were on the bus headed back to San Jose.
Late on Sunday morning we said “hasta la vista” to beautiful Costa Rica and caught a flight to Guatemala City, were we began the third chapter of our travels. And boy did this chapter get off to an exciting start. Due to our afternoon arrival, Alex and I were instructed by our volunteer program to stay in Guatemala City for the night and catch the five AM bus to Xela, our volunteer city, on Monday morning. Considering it was Super Bowl Sunday we checked into our hotel and immediately left in search of a restaurant that was playing the game… in English. We settled into a booth at nice sports restaurant minutes before kick-off and spent the rest of the game enjoying Guatemalan beer and typical American bar food.
In the restaurant where we watched
the Super Bowl
Again, as our bad luck would have it, we were back at the hotel for no more than thirty minutes before I submitted to a second bout of food poisoning. I’ll spare you the details, but if you’ve ever had food poisoning, you’ll know that I definitely wasn’t in any shape to ride a rickety, stuffy, third-world-country bus for three hours through winding, bumpy Guatemalan roads. Alex, bless his heart, canceled our early-morning pick up with the front desk which was a good thing because literally minutes after his request, he himself was gripped by the foul claws of the food poisoning and the two of us, pathetic creatures, spent our first day in Guatemala violently ill, sipping Gatorade and watching Spanish television in between alternating trips to the bathroom.
Better late than never, we mustered the strength and made it to Xela a day later than expected, where we were met by our in country coordinator and taken to meet our new host family. Teresa, our host mother, lives in a three-family complex with her two children Andrea and Roberto. We were first put in a bedroom that was about eight-by-ten feet and the only present piece of furniture was a small twin/full bed and one pillow. We literally couldn’t put on jackets without punching each other in the face. I don’t know if Teresa wasn’t expecting us to be as big as we are or what, but the next day she had us switch rooms with her kids to a room with two beds and a dresser. Our bathroom (which we are currently sharing with a family of slugs) is downstairs in the garage and our shower runs off electricity that can’t be on for more than ten minutes. We have no television or internet, which is bad in that we can’t communicate as easily with friends and family, but is good in the fact that Alex and I have both already finished 300+ page books and, thanks to a great bookstore, will be doing a lot more reading, studying and writing. The best part of our new house is that we have access to the roof where I get to watch the sun set on Volcán Santa Maria every night.
On Tuesday we were introduced to our new volunteer programs.
Alex is shadowing a Gastroenterologist at Rodolfo Robles Hospital, a large public hospital in the corner of town, where he helps attend to patients and is building a good relationship with the doctor who challenges him and is encouraging his learning of medicine.
View f the city coming down from
our hike. 
I am working with program called Proyectro Profamilia. It’s a small organization, run by an extremely generous woman named Gloria. The program assists extremely impoverished children with English classes, computer classes, handicrafts, cooking and they also provide free medical clinics every last Saturday of the month. Each afternoon I help two other women prepare and serve eighteen children lunch and afterwards I spend an hour teaching English to ten hungry-for-knowledge children.
We spent our first weekend hiking one of the many trails outside the city and were rewarded with an amazing view of the city. We also listened to a fantastic, live reggae-fusion band and experienced a little of what this city’s nightlife has to offer.
Considering we have barley been here for a week, Alex and I are both still settling in and trying to find our groove here in Xela. We miss Cusco and are both feeling a little homesick, but I think that’s to be expected after three months of being in a foreign country. Regardless, we are grateful to be in this beautiful city, surrounded by volcanoes and are excited to see what Guatemala country has to offer. Stay tuned for updates on the adventures of Phase Three!
And, as always, thanks for reading! 

Xela